Brands Prep

The only two jobs post Donington were to change the sticking n/s/f caliper and to adjust the n/s roll cage side bar section that wasn’t tight up against its mount location. Both straight forward to complete.

A new old stock caliper was sourced via eBay and fitted. Both front calipers bled and the sticking problem is solved.


Just loosening the side bar section bolts on the cage then re-seating the bars properly in their location cups before re-tightening the bolts sorts the cage issue.


Donington Weekend

Well I’ve been awful at keeping this site up to date this year so I better get it back up to date! I didn’t enjoy Donington, the pace for me was just not there. The car was OK but a n/s/f brake caliper sticking probably didn’t help but I just couldn’t find a rhythm.

Race 1 started with an OK start but Joe Cruttenden Managed to get past going up out of the Craner Curves into Old Hairpan but then Joe spun in front of me heading into Wheatcroft this caused me to have to slow to get safely past. Then I put some laps in slowly getting faster and faster then after around 10 laps I hit the sausage curbs hard at the Fogerty Esses and the interior mirror fell off and the car died causing me to pull over into the inside of Wheatcroft. As the Marshall’s walked towards the car I noticed the electrical cut off  switch had sprung down with the impact on the curb and I restarted the car, waited for it to be clear then pulled back on the circuit. By this time I was dead last and could just pump in the laps until the chequered flag.

The car other than refitting the mirror was OK for race 2 which was far less dramatic but again 2 seconds of my nearest rival and the pace was just not there. Cars seemed to be pulling off left, right and centre which allowed me to collect a few extra points but left a bit dis-heartened and deciding I must get some coaching this year.

Photo Courtesy of Joe Cruttenden

Tim and Joe

Final Fettling

Time to get the car back together, front bumper on, a few bits of paint re-touched, a couple of sound deadening bits removed that I hadn’t done. Seat and side bar back in and the car and back on its four ‘move around’ wheels.

Its now ready for its pre-Donington clean and first race weekend of 2017.

Tyred Out

One thing I had to bite the bullet and purchase was a new set of wet tyres, while in Class C you can use any road tyre on MSA list 1A the Toyo’s I kept as wets were the race tyres I used in my first season in 2014 and most of my second season in 2015. They were cooked to death with no give whatsoever and at Snetterton they were useless. On a recommendation from Oliver at Preptech I decided to purchase some Uniroyal Rainsports from my regular suppler at Camskill.


I was lucky enough to win two Dunlop Direzza’s in the end of season raffle so I purchased a new rim and took the worst left handed one I had in my existing 5 tyres and put them on. This gives me two spares, one left and one right.

Tow Straps

The MG Trophy has decided to adopt the soon to be mandatory tow straps on every corner rule. This is supplied to us in kit form that has been specially commissioned by the Trophy. Fairly straight forward fitting especially as I have the front bumper off and out the way a supplied bracket fits on the front beam mounting bolts then tie wrapped onto the corner of the bumper (when re-fitted). While in the front, I re-loom the o/s/f indicator that got ripped out by the recover truck at Snetterton.

The rear straps require a little more effort, drilling a 13mm hole 50mm behind the existing hole in the chassis up through into the boot floor. The supplied bolt then fixes in through the strap and bolts in. This time two slits are cut in the corner of the rear bumper to wedge the loop in place rather than under the bumper.



Modified Front Hubs

After the bush upgrade, next was adding longer studs to the front hubs for the 10mm spacers. This is one of the changes that I am not convinced will beneft to much but I will do it anyway. Two sets of M12 x 1.5 x 63mm studs and some 10mm spacers ordered I take two spare hubs apart. While they are apart its best to replace the wheel bearings so these are pressed in.

Realising to press the studs in I need to drill the holes in the hub out to 12.5mm I order a hardened drill bit that lasts two seconds in Dad’s pillar drill at the first attempt. This puts the process on hold until I can visit an engineering shop and get them machined out rather than eat drills!

Rear Beam Bushes

Two evenings have been used up changing the rear beam bushes from the OEM ones to PowerFlex Black ones in line with 2017 regs. This is not technically a hard job but always seems to bring out the colourful language.

With the bolts that pass through the bushes removed and the rear beam hanging, a bit of heat from a blow torch allows a gentle tap with a copper mallet to remove the original bushes out the way.


Once these are out the new bushes can be tapped in from the inside with a bit of grease and the steel tubes tapped through as well.


The pain in the job is lifting up the rear beam on ones own to line up the bolt holes once more. I found the best way was to undo the three bolts that hold the mount onto the floor of the car, fit the beam to the mount as the freedom of the mount being off the car allows easy hole alignment. Finally, just lift the beam up and put the bolts back in to secure the mount to the floor plan.